Marc Appleton and I stumbled on to the pier at the Rio de S. Moise as Stephen dropped us off after an afternoon of watercoloring on the Grande Canal in Venice.  As Stephen disappeared in his tiny dingy into the roiling waves of heavy canal traffic, Marc and I made a vow to come back to Italy solely for the purpose of painting. Many years later, Marc made good on his commitment and made me promise to come to Tivoli if he rented a villa. Of course I said yes, since the date he gave was still two years away. But when the email came for reservations I panicked; my daughter was getting married, we were swamped at the office, there were other commitments,…